Building your own diy ice auger mount is honestly one of those projects that makes you wonder why you ever considered spending a hundred bucks on a brand-name version. If you've spent any time dragging a sled across a frozen lake, you know the drill—everything is bouncing around, your tip-ups are getting tangled, and your expensive auger is sliding back and forth, probably dinging up your blades or leaking gas all over your gear. It's a mess.
Setting up a solid mounting system doesn't just keep things organized; it actually protects your investment. Whether you're running a classic gas-powered 10-inch beast or one of those new lightweight electric drill setups, having a dedicated spot for it changes the game. It makes the walk (or the ride) out to your honey hole a lot less stressful when you aren't constantly looking over your shoulder to see if your auger fell out of the sled.
Why a DIY approach beats the store-bought stuff
The main reason most of us go the custom route is, well, money. Commercial mounts are surprisingly expensive for what they are—usually just a bit of molded plastic or some powder-coated metal. But beyond the price, a diy ice auger mount lets you tailor the fit to your specific sled or ATV.
Standard mounts are built for a "one size fits most" world, which usually means they don't quite fit your setup perfectly. When you build it yourself, you can account for the exact dimensions of your powerhead, the length of your flighting, and where you like to keep your bait bucket. Plus, there's a certain level of pride in hitting the ice with a rig you built with your own two hands and some scraps from the garage.
The PVC cradle method
If you're looking for the easiest and most lightweight way to get this done, PVC is your best friend. It's cheap, it doesn't rust, and it's incredibly easy to work with. For a basic sled mount, you're basically building a "U" shaped cradle that supports the shaft of the auger just below the motor.
I like using 2-inch or 3-inch Schedule 40 PVC for this. You don't need anything crazy thick, but you want it sturdy enough to handle the cold without cracking. You can cut a notch into the top of a PVC pipe section so the auger shaft drops right in. To keep it from scratching the metal or vibrating too much, I usually zip-tie a piece of a pool noodle or some foam pipe insulation inside the notch. It's a small touch, but it keeps things quiet and snug.
Mounting the PVC to your sled is the only "tricky" part. You'll want to bolt it through the side of the sled using large fender washers. Those wide washers are key because they distribute the pressure; without them, the bolts might eventually pull right through the plastic of your sled if you're hitting hard drifts.
Building a wood frame for heavy gas augers
If you're still rocking a heavy gas auger, a plastic PVC mount might feel a bit flimsy. In that case, a wood frame is the way to go. You can use scrap 2x4s or even some 3/4-inch plywood to build a box-style mount that sits in the front or back of your sled.
The goal here is to create a "nest" for the powerhead. Gas engines can be awkward and top-heavy, so you want the weight concentrated over the center of the sled as much as possible. I've seen guys build a simple wooden "H" frame where the auger handles rest on the top bars and the shaft goes down through the middle.
One thing to keep in mind with wood is that it gets wet. No surprise there, right? If you don't seal it with some cheap outdoor paint or a bit of leftover deck stain, it's going to soak up slush, get heavy, and eventually rot out. A quick coat of spray paint is usually enough to make it last a few seasons.
Securing the auger for the ride
No matter how good your diy ice auger mount is, it's useless if the auger isn't strapped down. Gravity only does so much when you're hitting a pressure crack at fifteen miles per hour on a snowmobile.
Bungee cords are the classic choice because they're fast. You can grab them with gloves on, hook them over the handle, and you're good to go. However, standard bungees tend to lose their stretch in sub-zero temps. If you can find the EPDM rubber straps (the black ones that smell like tires), those stay flexible in the bitter cold and won't snap on you when it's -20 out.
If you want something more secure, look into those "rubber gear ties"—the heavy-duty wires coated in thick rubber. You can wrap them around the auger handle and the mount, and they aren't going anywhere. They're a bit more fiddly than a bungee, but they won't let your auger bounce out, even on the roughest ice.
Considerations for ATV and UTV mounts
If you're mounting your auger to an ATV rack or the bed of a UTV, the stakes are a little higher. You're moving faster, and the vibrations are much more intense than they are in a pulled sled. For these setups, a diy ice auger mount usually needs to be made of metal or very reinforced wood.
I've seen some really clever designs using "U" bolts and heavy-duty pipe clamps attached to the front rack of a quad. If you go this route, make sure the auger is positioned so it doesn't block your headlight or get in the way of your steering. It's also a good idea to angle the auger so that if it did somehow come loose, it wouldn't slide right into your tires.
Thinking about the blade guard
One mistake people often make when designing their mount is forgetting about the blade guard. You always want to keep that plastic cover on your blades while you're moving. Some DIY mounts are built so tight that the guard won't fit, or it gets knocked off when you're sliding the auger into place.
Always measure your mount with the guard on. Dull blades are the quickest way to ruin a fishing trip, and nothing dulls them faster than bouncing against the side of a sled or a metal bracket. If your mount supports the bottom of the auger too, make sure it's a "cup" style that allows the guard to sit comfortably inside.
Adding some "pro" touches
If you want to get fancy with your diy ice auger mount, you can add a small tool caddy to the side of it. I like to have a spot for my hex wrench (in case the drill adapter comes loose) and an extra spark plug if I'm running gas.
Another great addition is a simple "kickstand" if you're using a wood frame. This allows you to set the whole mount on the ice once you've reached your spot, keeping your powerhead out of the snow while you're busy clearing holes or setting lines. It's those little ergonomic tweaks that turn a basic DIY project into something that actually makes your fishing day easier.
Final thoughts on the build
At the end of the day, a diy ice auger mount doesn't have to look like a piece of art. It just needs to work. It needs to hold the weight, handle the cold, and let you get your auger in and out without a bunch of fumbling.
The best part about building it yourself is that you can keep tweaking it. If you find that the PVC is a little too low, you can just unscrew it and move it up. If the bungee cord is annoying, you can swap it for a different latch. You're the engineer here. Once you get it dialed in, you'll spend less time worrying about your gear and more time actually fishing, which is the whole point of being out there anyway.
Just grab some materials this weekend, lay your auger out in your sled, and start mocking it up. You'll be surprised at how quickly it comes together, and you'll definitely appreciate it the next time you're hauling gear across a frozen wind-swept lake.